Is the Submariner a good first luxury watch?

It is widely regarded as one of the safest first luxury purchases because of its versatility, brand recognition, and predictable resale. The trade-off is long authorised-dealer waiting lists and frequent above-retail pre-owned pricing.

Watch Models

Rolex Submariner - The Reference Dive Watch

Launched in 1953, the Submariner established the visual grammar of the modern dive watch: rotating bezel, oversized luminous indices, and a robust Oyster case rated for serious depth. Seven decades on, it remains the most cross-culturally recognisable luxury watch in the world.

By Ira Zoot

Reviewed against editorial standards 3 cited sources Last updated April 26, 2026 Subject-matter reviewed

Origin and design intent

Rolex introduced the Submariner at the 1954 Basel Fair to serve the then-emerging recreational diving market. Its rotating bezel allowed divers to track elapsed bottom time, and its waterproof Oyster case (developed in 1926) made it credible underwater equipment rather than a sport-themed dress watch.

Movement evolution

Early references used Rolex's automatic A296 and 1530 calibres. Modern Submariners run the in-house 3230 (no-date) and 3235 (date) movements, both COSC-certified chronometers featuring the Chronergy escapement and roughly 70-hour power reserves.

Reference lineage

Key milestones include the 6204 (1953), the crown-guard 5512/5513 (1959), the sapphire-crystal 16800 (1979), the ceramic-bezel 116610 (2010), and the current 41 mm 124060/124061 generation (2020). Each transition tightened tolerances rather than reinventing the silhouette.

Why it matters

The Submariner's near-iconic status creates a self-reinforcing collector market: it is widely understood as the default luxury sports watch, which sustains demand, which preserves resale value, which in turn makes it a low-risk entry point into Rolex collecting.