The Dirty Dozen - WW2 British Military Watches
In 1944 the British Ministry of Defence issued specification W.W.W. (Wrist. Watch. Waterproof) for a general-service wristwatch. Twelve manufacturers met the specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. The combined production became known to collectors as the 'Dirty Dozen'.
The W.W.W. specification
Black dial with luminous Arabic numerals, railroad minute track, sub-seconds at six o'clock, shatterproof crystal, regulation chronometer accuracy, and a waterproof case marked with the broad-arrow pheon and the W.W.W. designation on the case-back. Total production is estimated at roughly 145,000 pieces.
Collectability today
The Grana is the rarest (estimated 1,000–5,000 pieces) and consequently the most sought-after. Vertex relaunched as a brand in 2016 specifically on the strength of its Dirty Dozen heritage. Period examples with original dials, hands and case-back markings trade on the vintage-collector market - verified provenance is essential as broad-arrow markings have been counterfeited.
Key facts
- ▸Twelve manufacturers, ~145,000 watches, 1944–1945.
- ▸Specification: W.W.W. (Wrist. Watch. Waterproof).
- ▸Grana is the rarest of the twelve.